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In his refashioning of Fendi, Jones has taken a leaf from the Bloomsbury playbook, collaborating with the artisans of the brand’s legendary ateliers and working across disciplines with music makers, artists, and muses. His passion for fashion was born when his sister bequeathed him her collection of i-D magazines—invaluable chronicles of the innovative and often anarchic tastemakers emerging in 1980s London at a moment when music, art, and fashion collided and creative sparks flew. That kind of synergy has fueled Jones’s own work as a designer, and he continues to revere the era—witness his nonpareil collection of the work of disruptor designers such as Leigh Bowery, Rachel Auburn, Christopher Nemeth, Mr. Pearl, Vivienne Westwood, and the late Judy Blame (with whom Jones collaborated for Louis Vuitton menswear, collaboration being an essential element of his practice).
Jones later studied graphic design at Camberwell College of Arts, but found the subject “too flat,” as he recalls. “I wanted to do something that created a world.” So he went to see the legendarily exacting Louise Wilson, the take-no-prisoners head of the M.A. fashion course at Central Saint Martins whose dazzling stable of alumni would come to include Erdem Moralioglu, Christopher Kane, Mary Katrantzou, Simone Rocha, and Jonathan Saunders, among many others. Wilson reviewed Jones’s portfolio, “took a drag on a cigarette,” he says, “and was like, ‘Well, you’ve got good taste, so you can come on the course.’ Louise made me believe in myself,” Jones adds, “which made me quite brave.” They remained great friends until her untimely death in 2014. “The thing about fashion that I love is that it’s got everything else in it—photography, film, music—everything joins together,” he says.
The house archives include some 70,000 Lagerfeld works on paper, representing designs that he created over more than half a century. “I’m like, God—how did I get here?” says Jones—“to take a job over from someone like Karl Lagerfeld? It’s the biggest compliment you can get.” (Like Wilson, Venturini Fendi is another legendary nurturer of design talent: Fendi studio alumni also include Alessandro Michele, Maria Grazia Chiuri, Pierpaolo Piccioli, and Giambattista Valli.) “Fendi has always been a story of women and a man,” says Venturini Fendi, recalling the power dynamic between her mother and aunts and Lagerfeld. “It’s beautiful to see that this sort of alchemy is repeating itself today with the arrival of Kim, and also of Delfina. Kim knows how to create deep friendships: His friends become his family, and that family spirit is what has always distinguished us at Fendi.”
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