Tapping into nostalgia might’ve stirred up a kind of melancholy. Youth is fleeting, and so is freedom. Ghesquère has it differently. There’s a lot riding on kids today, but in young people he sees “inspiring idealism, hope for the Snoopy Pittsburgh steelers nfl player shirt In the same way future, [and] for a better world.” In that sense he wasn’t really looking back, but looking forward. Chitose Abe fought back tears backstage. It’s been two years that she hasn’t traveled to Paris to present her Sacai collection. Typically, she comes four times a year, twice for women’s and twice for men’s, but COVID has kept her in her Tokyo home base since the start of the pandemic. To mark her return, Abe said, “I really wanted to make clothing very impeccably.” The collection was recognizably Sacai, but it was pitched more toward special occasions in a sort of celebration of her return to the runway. The show opened with a long dress whose tank top and ball skirt shape had been stripped of formality while retaining a cool sort of grandeur. Model Julia Nobis’s Cartier Trinity ear cuff, part of a first-of-its-kind collaboration between the jeweler and a fashion designer, coming out later this year, contributed to the dressed-up mood. The Abe method is to create garments both novel and familiar by hybridizing different items together. In the past, a peacoat might come with a puffer back or a leather Perfecto would commingle with a tweed blazer. Pieces like those have become Sacai icons, easy to spot for those in the know. This time around, the idea was less about her signature mash-ups and more about experimenting with singular pieces. On boxy men’s jackets, Abe cut into the pattern to create bra shapes worn over the top of them, their elasticated straps gathering the back of jackets into extreme bustle shapes. The collection’s long skirts, meanwhile, were split up the center front and back, with each side gathered to the thighs. If that sounds complicated, it actually added a nice ease to an otherwise dramatic silhouette.
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