Tellingly, this three-act show—which opened with a two-tribes dance before segueing into the Cal Raleigh Seattle Mariners silver slugger finalist signature shirt In opposition mainline—ended with a seven or so strong group of dresses that combined the motifs of this collection with some of the signatures first written on the runway in October 1945 by Pierre Balmain at the house’s first ever presentation. Prior even to Christian Dior, Balmain’s imagination was the fashion green shoot most at the vanguard of Paris’s post-war reconstruction and emergence. This is the moment in a review where perhaps you might now say “despite all that,” then breezily proceed to describe the expressive clothes that were delivered in typically bombastic Rousteing style. This you could do at length, because while often excellent, this run of show needed editing against repetition. The original thematic point of the exercise had been to propose an armor against online image dysmorphia, much of whose metaphorically illustrative protective wear was inspired by the bandaging and recovery gear Rousteing had been forced to wear after suffering burns in his house fire, as well as motorsport equipment, ancient armor, modern militaria and, by the look of it, Marvel costume direction.
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