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Gohar and Mette have titled the collaboration “Sobremesa,” which roughly translates to the act of relaxing and enjoying each other’s company at the end of a meal. “I feel that’s when the more intimate interactions begin to happen,” says Gohar. “I thought that way of life was an appropriate mindset for this collection.” Janet Jackson’s seminal genre-crossing album, The Velvet Rope, celebrates its 25th anniversary this month. Featuring enduring hit singles such as “I Get Lonely” and the AIDS-awareness ballad “Together Again,” the album left an indelible print on the pop and R&B landscape since its release in 1997. But Jackson’s style during the Velvet Rope era enjoys an equally strong and enduring legacy.
The star didn’t shy away from experimentation during this time. She sported sculptural braids constructed out of velvet-red hair; paired a corset with a suit, push-up bra, and a dramatic top hat for one of her most iconic visuals; and, while on tour, embraced masculine-leaning tailoring. Jackson launched the introspective record with a stylistic and sepia-toned bang: the Q-Tip-assisted track “Got ‘Til It’s Gone.” The musician drew heavy inspiration from Apartheid-era South Africa and ’60s and ’70s Africana fashion for the music video. Janet, playing the role of a demure lounge singer, debuts a sculptural Medusa-esque hairdo and dons giant hoop earrings with a floor-length skirt and a delightfully lived-in Santa Fe Leather Co. coat. The result resembles a Malick Sidibé snapshot. The extras in the video are immaculately stylish too. There are tons of camp collar shirts, zigzag print polos, and wide-lapel blazers on the men, and high-waist pants, rayon dresses, and drab-toned headwraps on the women. This is a sweat-soaked party you long to be at.
On the surface, it may not seem like the most natural of aesthetic partnerships: Gohar and her sister Nadia, after all, are the masterminds behind Gohar World, a surrealist-inspired brand that offers avant-garde objects like egg candelabras and lace vegetable bonnets. Hay, meanwhile, epitomizes sleek Scandinavian minimalism. Yet Gohar prefers not to be bound to specific design descriptors—“I don’t really identify one single movement or style,” she says. For this collection, optic inspiration came from both the objects Hay called out in Gohar’s studio, as well as primary colors. When they first began the design process, the pandemic was at its peak, and the days of dinner parties felt far off; as a result, Gohar found both hope and joy in this foundational palette. “The colors reminded me of a carnival atmosphere, or even elementary school on a day that was really fun,” she says. Indeed, the chunky stripes on a cookie jar resemble that of the parachute seemingly used in everyone’s second-grade gym classes, whereas the color scheme of a vase looks just like a circus tent. A tablecloth is embroidered with an apple, while napkins feature geometric motifs of squares, lines, and triangles. Other items include placemats, a bean jar, and a market basket perfectly designed to be slung over one arm.
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